Laurent Mazzone Acqua Zenzero is a spicy-woody unisex fragrance, part of the 2021 collection, assembled from transparent, pure, natural compositions. However, this spicy symphony is the hottest and most seductive of the Les Eaux Pures quintet. Ginger, cardamom, pepper tree, cinnamon, nutmeg radiate enveloping warmth, and when the enchantress leaves, a trail of musk, vetiver and crystalline moss remains behind her, like after a mermaid-sorceress.
In ancient times, what the Swiss niche brand pernoire is doing now would have been called alchemy, and now its perfume sounds like a new word for the modern generation. Two young and ambitious perfumers have created the woody-citrusy fragrance Yuma, whose name combines yuzu and mint, both of which are present in abundance. The composition opens with Swiss mint, peppermint, yuzu, and bergamot. The heart reveals alpine breeze (!), edelweiss, ginger, and cashmeran. Dry amber, vetiver, musk, and patchouli linger on the skin. We start with freshness and finish with allure and passion, so that you want to rush to the wearer of this fragrance, like to the unattainable white edelweiss on the tops of the mountains.
Woody-chypre unisex fragrance with an oriental touch Montale Oud Sapparot will appeal to both women and men with its daring exoticism, which smoothly turns into a woody spiciness, and then softens again and leaves an almost gourmand trail. The opening reveals a burst of ripe pineapple (saparrot is Thai for “pineapple”), paired with smoky, leathery Cambodian oud and slightly bitter saffron. The heart, along with cinnamon and leather, reveals an unexpected creamy-woody note—birch—that lends the composition staying power and depth. And in the finale, the scent softens again, as if enveloping you in a patterned veil soaked incense, served by the signature Montale base with soothing oud, vanilla, coconut and musk.
Inspired by Japanese folklore, “Siren” (2024) by Fragrance Du Bois in 2025 became Sirène Privée is a woody-citrusy women’s fragrance with a spicy undertone. Cherry is also prominent, but in the heart, while the opening notes feature pronounced red orange, pink pepper, and nutmeg. The cherry emerges a little later, along with heady geranium, cinnamon, and Turkish delight. In the finale, vetiver, oak moss and cypreol remain, adding woody power and natural magic to the oriental sweetness of the aroma.
Thenew fragrances of the youngbrand Osmassino, created in collaboration with Ksenia Borodina, are much more ephemeral than the previous four in this review, despite their Turkish origin. Black Leaf Kiss has only a woody-smoky aftertaste, left on the skin by guaiac wood and cedar. The aroma itself is bright, warm and juicy, with notes of bergamot, lemon, black currant, tiare, fig and red apple. The second composition – Cherry Sherbet — also very feminine and gentle: this is exactly the kind of perfume that reveals its “soft power” when its owner enters a room. At first, frivolous strawberrya, yellowcherrynya and peony sound, but after them, depth opens up, promising many temptations. It is created by vetiver, cedar and the Akigalawood molecule, which is reminiscent of black pepper in character.
Ksenia Borodina
